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Whenever compiling a roll of London’s finest eateries, one might anticipate familiar high-end establishments. Yet, situated high among these food giants is a simple salonu located in a outlying corner of northern London.

A Surprise Accolade

The compact Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the 4th best restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent culinary publication. The accolade has made the owners totally astonished.

“I’m totally surprised,” says a owner’s son, referring to his family’s relentless work that resulted in their small restaurant achieving such a prominent position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Simplicity

The little venue, which started as a simple cafe before its transformation into a sought-after destination, has maintained much of its former feel. It seats just more than 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking display, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate space,” says the owner.

The Star Dish: Tantuni

However, it is focused on the food, and this establishment definitely delivers. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a tender texture.

The meat is then tossed into a large pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in slowly. As the savoury mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is rolled tightly inside.

The wrap is often eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a mighty burst of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The leading food critic described this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe goes down a delight. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, resulting in it a more intense, more aromatic and more balanced profile.

Outranking the Giants

Remarkably, this modest restaurant has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the peak of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant full for less than £25, similar meals at top-tier establishments can cost significantly more than that figure.

A Philosophy of Warmth

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well outside the city’s central zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. It is expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I don’t believe in that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is hospitality, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The view is echoed by the list’s editor, who stated that if he was in a role of power, he would “require to have every chef in London train at this spot as a final lesson, to teach them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Journey of Dedication

Unlike most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food didn’t work at fancy restaurants. “I feel really happy of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants require years to find their footing, but this one first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum would be very tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a life outside work but her friends would visit to help her. She had children and a house to look after as well. All of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

An Accomplishment for the Community

This restaurant’s recognition is bound to resonate beyond its own walls. “In my opinion a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the wider significance of this gastronomic achievement.